What is Exfoliation?

Spas are always talking about exfoliation. But what is it? Why is it important? And can you overdo it?

Exfoliation is the removal of the oldest dead skin cells that cling to the skin's outermost surface. When done correctly, exfoliation leaves the skin smoother and fresher looking. It also makes penetration easier for products like serums that nourish the skin.

Exfoliation is an important part of facials and body treatments.

There are two forms of exfoliation:

1) Mechanical Exfoliation. The dead skin cells are physically rubbed off with an abrasive. Examples of mechanical exfoliation include a salt glow, a body scrub that might use sugar or coffee grounds, or skin brushing. Products for the face should use small, round, gentle abrasives like jojoba beads.

2) Chemical Exfoliation. Enzymes, alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) or betahydroxy acids (BHAS) loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to slough away. Facial peels are a form of chemical exfoliation. They can either be very gentle or very aggressive, depending on how the strong the product is.


Why Is Exfoliation Important?

The skin is constantly generating new skin cells at the lower layer (the dermis) and sending them to the surface (the epidermis). As the cells rise to the surface they gradually die and become filled with keratin.

The keratinized skin cells are essential. They give our skin its protective quality. But they are constantly sloughing off to make way for younger cells.

As we age the process of cell turnover slows down. Cells start to pile up unevenly on the skin's surface, giving it a dry, rough, dull appearance. Exfoliation is beneficial because it removes those cells that are clinging on, revealing the fresher, younger skin cells below.

It is possible, however, to overexfoliate, especially on the delicate skin of the face. Overexfoliating will dry and irritate the skin.

What You Should Know About Facial Exfoliation:

- Be extra careful with the delicate skin of your face.
- It's easy to overexfoliate. Talk to a good esthetician about the product and frequency that is best for your skin.
- Never use body scrubs on the face. They're too rough.
- Be very careful with peels. Don't get one peel and then go somewhere else to ask for another. You can remove too much of your protective layer and end up exposing the living dermis.
- Never wax if you've had a peel recently. It might also expose raw, living skin, which will have to scab over to heal.

What You Should Know About Body Exfoliation:

- You can use a body scrub once or twice a week with no problem.
- Body brushing every morning is a gentle way to exfoliate -- and wake up!